You can never get to “fully 3d printed” unless you can print metal, and even then the tolerances just aren’t there yet.
But if you want a 3d printer that’s as 3d printed as it can get, why not look at things that were designed for it, like Rook or Mulbot or The 100?
A torrent link won’t either? In either situation, the site needs to seed their own data, at a minimum.
Perhaps. Or perhaps they’re a giant behemoth where 1 hand doesn’t know what the other is doing, and the person with the authority for this hasn’t bothered.
They delisted them before they announced that they wouldn’t require accounts after all.
I bought the Kobo Libra Color and I love it so far. Previously I’ve had various Kindles and a Meeebook P78, and I like the Kobo a lot better so far. And I’m still just using it for B&W books at the moment.
The color is pretty faded, as you’d expect from e-ink. But I do enjoy that the book covers are in color.
I was actually hoping this was going to be a cover for my model, but oh well. :)
Gamesir T4 Kaleid. I love the hall effect joysticks, and it feels like it’s the right size. The one negative is that it’s wired-only.
OTOH, the GameSir Nova (not lite) is hot garbage. I hate almost everything about it, and its wireless PC connection (without the dongle that it does not come with) is trash. It’s basically only good as a Switch controller… And I haven’t even actually tried it for that.
The GameSir Nova Lite is much better, but still too small and you need to use the slightly-older 4200 firmware (from the official app) instead of the latest, because they got stupid about things.
I somewhat like the Xbox Elite V2 controller, but you have to get a good one. A bad one will have really crappy triggers that sometimes won’t work. I think I’ve even heard that the sticks are sometimes wonky. And it’s not hall effect.
I have plenty of space, and I still sold off my resin printer because of fumes, mess, and general headaches. I don’t recommend it if you aren’t fully prepared for what it requires to do it safely and sanely.
I don’t think politely asking people to change their review so that it reflects reality is a “karen” move.
I think it’s by design, not because they’re stupid. They saw those forks right away and decided to let them get settled in and comfortable, and then removed them. Knowing that the hammer will come down eventually is really demoralizing. Knowing it’ll come down right away means you can test the waters and see how it goes without much personal investment.
My mother lost her shop because she was selling charms (on bracelets she made) that had copyrighted/trademarked designs that she bought from China. She didn’t produce the actual infringing part, just partnered it with her own stuff. She still lost her shop after a few strikes.
I assure you that Etsy is serious about that, but it takes a few reports to actually shut the shop down. If nobody else is reporting them, it could take forever.
Go ahead and report them. If they’re really bad about this, they’ll lose their shop immediately. Otherwise, it’s a very strong warning.
Edit: Also, if you really don’t mind them printing it, but want credit, release it under an appropriate license that states that. Otherwise, you’re only helping unethical people and preventing ethical people from doing it.
I use nearlyfreespeech.net. They bill for usage, and since my site gets almost no hits and doesn’t take much storage, it’s ridiculously cheap. Much cheaper than even he $2.50.mo VPS listed in another comment. I just checked, and I spend an average of $.30/mo.
I disagree about humans reading these… As someone who has to read resumes while hiring, I’d rather see this than the word-soup I often get. It gives me an idea of what you’re best at, and I can figure out that you’d also be able to learn/do similar things.
What are you using for a probe? I’ve guessing the first layer problem is something subtle to do with your probe. If it’s a Tap, it’s probably filament on the nozzle and you’ll need to clean it before each print.
I used an older Cura that I already had installed (instead of Orca 2 that I’ve been using) and the underextrusion pattern is different, but still there.
When I’ve had something like that (or just underextrusion randomly part way through a print) I’ve decided it was a clog and did a “cold pull” on the filament to fix it and it seemed to work. It can be insidious because it sometimes clog and sometimes doesn’t.
Though, I’ve also had people suggest it was “heat creep” where the heat gets too far upwards and melts the filament too early.
Yeah, it’s pretty weird. I appreciate the help, though!
I’ll probably post over there soon. I’m a little burnt out by it at the moment.
I turned pressure advance to 0 in both Orca and Klipper, and saw no difference. :(
I’ve cleaned the bed and not applied 3DLAC, and it hasn’t helped.
I’d call that a leak rather than a clog. :)
IMO, you didn’t get unlucky with the K1M or lucky with the P1S. That’s the normal state of printers. Most printers are hard to dial in well, and the Bambu printers work like a dream out of the box. Luck is involved for anyone that didn’t start in those states.