Perhaps, but have you actually tested this for yourself?
PLA is extruded at 220C in my Prusa beastie. Once the filament is slapped on the model, I probably want it to to fuse to the previous layer really well and then cool really fast and become stable.
We need to provide working and results rather than “I think that”. My printer is quite close to a very large double doors to outside, which open and shut as required.
It’s complicated but PLA is bio-degradable … eventually. Not months but years. That’s much better than the horrors you see on Blue Planet II.
Plus humidity is bad for your filament.
I keep on hearing this but it does not check out for me.
I have a Prusa 3S+, self assembled. I do not do a great deal of printing and go through phases. I did a flurry of prints during the pandemic and then it rested idle in our rather cold and slightly damp study for a couple of years. When I bought it, it came with a spool of silver Prusament which worked nicely. I then bought a spool of “Sunlu” filament (Chinese firm off of Amazon) and then a box of 10 colours of the stuff.
I recently got the printer out and updated the firmware, re-calibrated it and so on. I’ve done several prints with filament that has been open to the environment for at least two or three years and its fine. I have done a print using some transparent filament which was unopened and that was fine too. The unopened stuff was vacuum shrunk wrapped so could not possibly be damp. The opened filament was stored in the original cardboard box in a slightly damp and unheated room.
For me the main issues for a decent print are:
I will try repeating a challenging print with filament that is way older now and see what happens. I printed a couple of tank models in red around four years ago. Both involved their turrets with the barrel facing upwards - that’s a lumpy cylinder about 4cm long and 2mm wide.
I have seen some notes about PLA being hydrophylic (absorbs water) on the Prusa website’s official advice but I don’t personally think it is an issue and people are probably missing another factor or factors that is fucking up their prints. I think the filament dampness meme is “cargo culting”.
PLA is heated to around 220C whilst being extruded so any water will steam off very quickly as water vapour - which is not even “wet”, well before worrying a print job.
PLA is touted as bio-degradable and it is … eventually. It is extremely stable, despite being derived from corn starch. It really doesn’t seem to care about a bit of water hanging around. That’s why I can print new hinges for a plastic garden storage thing to replace the original ones and they last through winters and summers in the UK.
So, if you think moisture is an issue for PLA filament used for 3D printing, why not do some experiments and then decide for yourself.
I’m happy to be proved wrong.
That is superb. Sadly my eyes degrade faster than the frames wear out!
I see you are on the John Lennon specials which makes it a bit easier to model. I haven’t worn circular specs since college (~1990) My current Tesco specials only have lens frame from the nasal bridge clips, over the top to about 5mm below the temple joints.
Just a thought but you might like to investigate using spring steel for the arms and PLA just for the frames. You could create a jig for joining and heat the ends of the arms up with a brazing torch (kitchen supplies) and sink them into a suitable cylinder close to the temple joint. If you go all in you can make the straight part of the arm rigid and the over ear part flexible with careful heating and cooling and whacking with a hammer!
Now, that metal work will be comfortable but might be a bit chilly. What about PLA tips over ear instead of steel?
Anyway, great job. I’m very impressed.
That looks like a cherry picked starting point. Read the whole thread for the full context.
fwiw, I don’t think anyone comes out looking particularly good. However, attempting to describe Frenck as infamous here and now is a bit rich. That minor disagreement all happened during the pandemic and I’m sure we have all passed a lot of water since then.
“Gilfoyle” is an anagram of Cthulu.
Use what works for you.
If the boy has a gaming rig, then he also has a CAD workstation.
I managed to get a dodgy copy of AutoCAD 2 running on my 80286 with an 80287 maths co pro that I persuaded my parents to buy me for Chrimbo. Sadly, it was a bit shite. The next version of AutoCAD needed a 32 bit machine with 32 MB (yes MB) of RAM. That was way out of my league.
Depending on the age of the boy and given how long the little darlings are tending to hang around these days, a constructive bribery system in lieu of rent or pocket money enhancement might be in order 8)
My home and work ones both have Zigbee and Zwave. The modern ZwaveJS integration is amazing compared the old effort. Also: ESPHome, NUT, Mossie (MQTT), nginx proxy manager, MariaDB, nodered, Piper and that, Remote Backup, Terminal and SSH, DSS VoIP Notifier, VLC.
HACS with a fair few custom cards etc.
Good on you mate. I have no idea why you are being downvoted when you are being the big man when called out.
I do understand your position - it is bloody annoying to have to remind people how the web works but in this case you are doing a “show and tell”.
When doing something like that I think you should show all and tell all. “Here’s what I did and how I did it and here’s how you can do it too”. That’s why I went in with the rather dodgy ankle reference! Think about when you see those influencers with worryingly pneumatic lips and arses that might double as seating for a friend. They show all, really all and some make a decent living at it. Now think about what sort of response you want for one of your show and tells.
I do confess that I used to do the same as you - I blasted away at someone on The Register a fair few years ago and was called out and subsequently apologised. That was a game changer for me and I suspect for you now. That doesn’t mean that you can’t get riled occasionally but make sure it counts and you are in the right or at least nearly right … OK you think you are right 8)
Cool beans!
Cheers Jon
PS I’m 53 today
Perhaps but if you are doing a show and tell, why not do the full tell?
I can remember when Google didn’t exist and Altavista was the cool kid, or when the www didn’t exist and gopher and WAIS were the tools of choice. … and I can go much further back.
My real point is: If you are going to show a bit of ankle, and it is yours, make sure that everyone realises it is your ankle. If it isn’t your ankle, then tell us whose it is. It’s not fair asking people to search for pictures of ankles and then try to guess which one you have posted about.
SO: Next door have got their lights up, why haven’t we? Me: (Enable NodeRed flows for gutter and pergola light strings that switches them on at dusk and off late evening) Right, that’s the missus pacified for a week or so. I should probably get BigTimer to sort that out itself.
Employee: I’ve got all the printers for <customer> monitored using an auto entries card. (Good skills) Me: (Installs an addon that can use VoIP to do text to speech to a phone) We warn off the customer and now they get a phone call from “things” that tells them what consumables to buy and also sends an email.
When I finally get around to sorting out my glasses so I can see what my soldering iron is up to, I’ll get many more gadgets installed. My computer room at work needs a tiny ESP8266 and four 1 wire Dallas SC temperature sensors, a bit of vero board, a resistor, power and probably a buck convertor and a case, which I’ll print.
I adore HA.
Start off with Thingiverse or similar. I recommend something like: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3553160 There are a lot of models there - those are .STL that you “slice” and send to your printer. There is this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187167 which is CAD models with the working left in - OpenSCAD in this case. You load it up, generate a .STL and then pass that to the slicer.
I have a large plastic cabinet in my garden for storing a lawn mower etc. The hinges died years ago. I have printed new ones. At least 20kg of plastic waste has been avoided being dumped a lot longer. I am well aware (now) that I should not have bought the bloody thing in the first place!
If you go the OpenSCAD route, you might like this: https://github.com/JustinSDK/dotSCAD - the author sadly passed away recently but his work is legendary in my opinion.
Once you get printing sorted out, then move on to your own stuff. … or not - give it a go! I have a large bag of very strangely shaped PETG experiments that went badly wrong and need recycling.
I only use Reolinks these days. RLC-410 - some dome and some bullet. Cheap and easy to setup. I’m a long term Zoneminder user which I get to watch the low res stream and record on the high res stream. My ZM is a VM on VMware with a cheap Nvidia GPU passed through for CUDA. This still works: https://wiki.zoneminder.com/GPU_passthrough_in_VMWare but I should probably bring the wiki page up to date.
I have a Reolink door bell too - I went for the PoE one. It’s a lot better than my old Doorbird but not as sturdy. The door bird could drive a chime too which was nice. The Reo can’t but it is a PoE powered unit with a UPS backing the switch. That’s pretty resilient.
They never get to see the internet. I fiddle DNS so that pool.ntp.com points at my ntp daemons but I run an IT company so that might be a bit excessive for most! I have three Pis with GPS hats and antennae.
As you say, they are well supported by HA too. If you have a Coral and Frigate then you have lots of options. Just keep them away from the internet if you are concerned about who is looking through them apart from you.
Good skills Sir! Advice noted and I will re-evaluate how I do specs.
Thank you.