I’ve been resin printing for maybe a month. I’ve noticed that on all of the resins that I’ve got, and all of the profiles I’ve downloaded for them, the lift speed is usually at least 3 to 4 mm. However, when listening to my printer operate, I can tell that it is fully separating the print within the first millimeter or so. I’ve changed almost all of my resin profiles to only lift 1 mm, cutting each layer time down like 2 seconds, and absolutely zero change in any quality whatsoever. Am I just lucky with my printer configuration, or my fep is especially tight? Or why else would such a large distance be commonly recommended?
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It’s generic for thicker resins. A higher lift and a short pause is normal so that resin can flow back under the print where it just separated.
Just tune it down for your particular resins.
It’s odd then that this seems to be the case for all the resins I’ve tried (granted, they’re all from anycubic, just different types).
You’d think that the companies advertising “8k resin” would try to shill their product as “low lift, faster prints” or something.
I have a pair of Mono 6ks’s and yeah. Their settings are even across most of the resins in their slicer. I use the same settings between ABS, nylons and clear resins but just for functional prints. (Precision only matters in key spots for me.)
I will say this though: Their base settings work for me, which is super different than what I was used to with FDM.
Lift speed is determined more by the plastic sheet type, and “8k resin” may or may not be a little thinner and that is generally the only difference, if at all. (+8k resin is almost always marketing wank.) nFEP is the most common way to go for the detail/speed tradeoff.
(The Blu nylons are thick as hell though, so the lift speed/dwell can actually matter.)
Mono 6k’s
Yup, that’s my exact printer. Haha.
+8k resin is almost always marketing wank.
Yeah, that’s why I figured a company that is willing to make up mostly BS to sell their stuff would jump at the opportunity to advertise an actual perk (lower lift height).
Yes, having a system where the manufacturer recommended settings actually work and work well is wild coming from FDM printing. With filament they’re like “uh print somewhere around this temp I guess 👍🏽” what retraction settings? How fast can I print? Flow %? Granted this all varies dramatically from printer to printer so I know why they don’t try to give a profile, but it’s so nice that resin printing you’ve got a perfectly working baseline that you only really need to fine tune if you want.
Those are good printers. I put about 6 different resin types through them, and did get my optimal settings for fine detail because I was curious. It’s just pointless for what I do, s’all.
But yes, depending on what your goals are for printing, there is a fuck ton of room for speed improvements.
