I use the *arr suite to manage things for me. There’s lidarr for music, radarr for movies, sonarr for TV, readarr for ebooks, bazarr for subtitles, and prowlarr to manage trackers/usenet.
I use the *arr suite to manage things for me. There’s lidarr for music, radarr for movies, sonarr for TV, readarr for ebooks, bazarr for subtitles, and prowlarr to manage trackers/usenet.
The worst that can happen is they don’t return the disk
Which is dumb because the original is already super cool.
Nah I’m going Balls to the wall and I’m going to program my oven to do precise TC
It coincides with my vaping hobby
I wish I could print nylon, but the old oven I’m converting into a heated chamber is buried in the back of my garage.
My hobby is designing smart home systems and building my own smart devices, as well as being a cyber security expert in my day job, so I’m actually a primary source.
Plus, don’t rely on strangers on the internet to spoon feed you sources. It’s pretty easy to do your own research (which is how I learned what I know. If I’m dubious of a claim, I research it myself, which is why I possess the wealth of knowledge I do.
But you can easily find the security risks posed by Tuya with light googling.
I don’t care for the movie
This won’t solve the fact that the filament is going to shrink a bit when cooling. Although you should already be scaling your models to account for this
I came in here to ask about part shrinkage, and it seems you’ve got that figured out.
You might consider incorporating this into one of the filament test slides.
All of the cheap Chinese devices are Tuya, which is a Chinese company which iirc the CCP controls.
The only reason you should buy a Tuya device is if you’re going up flash it with an open source firmware.
Throw those bulbs away. They’re likely Tuya bulbs, and everything Tuya is a major security vulnerability. Worse than TikTok
Go with TP-Link. Their products work well, work with home kit, and work with things like home assistant. They’re also creating matter devices now.
Also, I’d recommend getting a smart light switch instead of a smart bulb since the Led controller in the bulb is what will fail first. But, I get that this isn’t an option for a lamp, or if your overhead light and fan are tied together.
For the lamp, a smart outlet would work, and for the fan you can probably rig up a Shelly relay at the fan so you don’t have to do a drop for the fan control cable (if it has that capability).
Synology is a good option for cloud based backup of you want an out of the box solution.
It would be nice if RTFM was always an option, but a lot of the time the documentation is woefully incomplete.
I remote into my work laptop too, but I don’t have any work data on my personal devices. And, my desktop is more secure than my work laptop.
In all of my IT jobs I would have been fired if I had signed into work accounts on my personal phone. It’s a pretty big security risk.
It’s always been the case when buying games period.
And the games actually go on sale
Sharing isn’t the issue. The emulator was profiting from it.
If I copied your house key and sold it, would that be alright?
For the record, I support emulation, but I don’t lie to myself that it’s morally defensible.
An hour or two a week.