I did this with all my PS1 games a while back, ran into a ton of unreadable ones. Managed to read some scratched ones by trying out four different drives, but some sadly fell victim to disk rot ☹️

o7 thanks for the memories I guess!

Those are fake mirrors completely missing aniwave’s core features: account watchlists, auto skip intro/outro, auto next, watch together, and the comments don’t even work.

Wouldn’t surprise me if they’re missing the majority of Aniwave’s library too

Edit: The search is horrifically basic too. No filters at all, seriously? The clones don’t even try to compete 🤦‍♂️

Pirate websites like this usually rely on the shadier ad networks baked into these kinds of video streaming sites to make their money.

There’s no financial incentive to use BitTorrent based streaming, and if they did I feel the torrents would die rapidly just due to the amount of leechers with barely any seeders to offset the ratio disparity (Unless some kind of webseed was available ?)

I recently picked up an iPhone as a secondary device, pretty much immediately disabled iCloud and installed Mobius (Syncthing) so the photos get sync’ed over to my fairphone’s SD card.

Now i’m second guessing whether it’s actually disabled, or if I’m going to get an iCloud full warning in a couple of months…

I use Open Camera on my device, there are some very rare instances where it shows an obscure error saying it can’t find a gallery app. Most of the time though it opens Fossify Gallery just fine

I’m rooted and Google Photos was removed from my device before a single photo was taken, so never seen or heard even a peep from it

A while back I made a Lolin32-based weather station that lasts for around 60 days on a single disposable vape battery.

It wakes up every 15 mins, and while it’s connecting to WiFi it retrieves the AM2302 sensor readings. As soon as they’re transmitted it goes back to sleep.

I wish there was a more power efficient alternative though, like whatever is being used in those BLE LYWSD03MMC sensors that last for around 3-6 months on a cr2032 whilst also having a display built in

To answer the direct question - no

I do have some thoughts on moving away from the Pi though - warning, heavy personal bias ahead…

If you’re looking at moving away from the Pi I would just suggest a low power x86 box, like a Nuc or some Intel N100 low-power tiny PC.

There is a caveat though - it looks like the OctoPi project only provides OS builds for the Pi, so if you change systems it looks like you’ll need to install OctoPrint manually, and port over your config somehow.

On ebay you can get second-hand NUCs, 6th gen and up, for practically peanuts. The cheaper quad core celeron nucs (i.e. J3455) are roughly equivalent to the 3rd and 4th gen dual-core i5s (3777u, 3230m etc) performance wise, but have an updated QuickSync encoder and support accelerated 4K video encoding/playback, handy if you want to capture timelapses of your prints or just view them live. They also consume 1/3rd of the power at around 10 watts under the same workload.

ARM support for other vendors can be pretty flaky, sometimes even non existent. While you could pick an Orange Pi, and go with a modern community-supported distro like Armbian, it isn’t a turnkey experience like the Pi. There is much less documentation, and still some very early boards floating around with hardware defects and overheating issues (posing a fire risk in the worst case, the OPi Zero being the most egregious - literally melting the optional enclosure and killing the NIC). Some research before buying will let you know most of what you need to know - check around the forums for any common issues and dealbreakers, as well as the manufacturer’s site to get an idea of available support.

If you want to get an idea of the alternatives you could check out Jeff Geerling’s youtube channel, he covers the Pi and occasionally videos on other alternatives, as well as issues he’s had with them and support. I’ll try and link some below…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KghZIgkKZcs

Check the comments on that one for a quick synopsis, as the video is quite long…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjzvh-bfV-E

This video pretty much just echoes my current perspective

First time hearing of this! Thank you 😁

I was coming from Lighttpd which at the time had a very similar config syntax to Nginx. It was pretty much a no brainer, considering I wanted to shift to an automated Letsencrypt renewal process at the same time.

Sadly I wrote some python web services for CGI (not django/flask) that cannot be run anymore, since NGINX only supports FCGI, rather than just CGI as far as I can tell

Retraction settings are probably your best bet then. Since the SV06 doesn’t use a bowden extruder, there’s much less things that could be the issue in your scenario thankfully

To be specific about my “workaround”, it compensates for a non-flat build plate (ramped lift) and a cheap nozzle that filament often sticks to (wipe on retract). It took me two days of test prints and research to narrow those down though…

To get to the bottom of your issue quickly, you could try tuning your retraction using a retraction test, then possibly try recording the nozzle printing the same test at 60/120fps, to play it back in slow motion. This way you can see at what part of the nozzle movement the stringing starts, and change any relevant settings accordingly

Are you printing with PLA or PETG?

I dealt with my stringing issue by enabling “Wipe-on-retract”, and “ramped lift”, allowing any oozing material from the nozzle after retraction to get wiped off.

Dialed in slicer settings for PLA first since it’s usually an easier material to print with, then changed a few things for PETG, like increasing the travel speed to break the stringing faster.

ASMedia is the only controller IC manufacturer that can be trusted for these IME. They also have the best Linux support compared to the other options and support pass-through commands. These are commonly found in USB DAS enclosures, and a very small fraction of single disk SATA enclosures

Innostor controllers max out at SATA 2 and lock up when you issue pass-through commands (e.g. to read SMART data). These also return an incorrect serial number. These are commonly found in ultra cheap desktop hard drive docks, and 40pin IDE/44pin IDE/SATA to USB converters

JMicron controllers (not affiliated with the reputable Micron) should be avoided unless you know what you are doing… UASP is flaky, and there are hacky kernel boot time parameters required to get these working on Raspberry Pi boards. Unfortunately these are the most popular ones on the market due to very low cost

Probably not.

However, not all USB to SATA adapters support SMART, so even if there is a bad sector that gets remapped by the HDD on-the-fly (and thus does not show up in the software scan), you may not find out easily

Really nice to see improcements being made to local voice control.

I personally haven’t opted for it yet due to the computing reqirements - instead been looking into dedicated offline voice recognition modules, since they use much less power. Downside is that they recognise a mostly predefined set of commands, and are just looking for patterns in speech instead of actually performing voice recognition

Would be interesting to compare the two voice control approaches side by side at some point

IIRC when looking into this originally, there are multiple tools necessary due to additional metadata on the MCs: mcpaste for PS1 saves, psupaste for PS2 saves, and the PS3 uses an entirely different format that needs to be converted prior to use (I don’t remember if you need to jailbreak to get the keys for this)

Felt there was a bit too much manual stuff involved which could allow human error to come in and mess something up. I did do a copy + psupaste to the internal HDD on a new partition just in-case, but there was no way I was going to risk copying those back onto my only memory card to test if it actually was done right 😅

The original MC was near full as well, so it’s pretty nice to also be able to spin up new ones when needed (to be fair I believe OPL has a similar feature built in, although some games may freeze using it)

I wholeheartedly agree with this tbh. Love FreeCAD for my 3D printing stuff, pretty much use it daily, however compared to something like Solidworks or AutoCAD it would be torture IMO to willingly chose FreeCAD for a complex real world product.

The biggest roadblock for FreeCAD right now is that is isn’t that forgiving, you often have to go into a “technical” way of thinking to work around its quirks. The reality is, designers want to design, not become technical experts at navigating FreeCAD.

Even something like creating a thread shouldn’t be as involved as FreeCAD makes it - once you get used to it it’s OK, but in other CAD solutions it’s often as simple as clicking a hole and choosing a thread creation tool…

I’m probably an outlier lol, I installed the Windows version of 7zip (via wine) alongside the native Linux version just to have a GUI for setting the compression parameters if I’m creating a new archive from the file manager

Steam deck is the only linux device that does AFAIK, via their in-house compositor Gamescope.

It’s on GitHub, but I have a feeling some of the HDR specfics that would be needed for an open source linux implementation could be at the ransom of some standards body, like 4K 120fps support on AMD graphics cards under Linux

This kind of stuff happens all the time IMO, we’re human and not perfect 🤷‍♂️

I don’t know how much of a help ChatGPT would be in this situation without access to your schema, at least with Copilot you can write a comment in the code explaining what you’re trying to do and get some usable pointers in the generated suggestion (which takes your codebase into account).

I usually try to get a second pair of eyes on my code if something that seems relatively simple isn’t working as expected… As you gain more experience these mistakes will become less common, and easier to spot

The approach I’ve seen here on Lemmy is to bidirectionally reference alts in each profile