The typical cause of this is a biomarker sticks to one side of an embryo, marking it as left (or right, I don’t remember), but a twin embryo that is too close will see that marker on the other side and develop mirror imaged to the first embryo, right?

Look at Sovol or Anycubic in that price range. I don’t have direct experience with either. A good friend of mine had two Anycubics at one point last year and he said they were easier than his Creality.

My third printer, I paid $70 for, used (ender 3 pro return). It was missing several small components, one big part (top aluminum extrusion) that required some machining with a drill press, and had a bad thermistor.

I don’t think you can get a beginning printer for $100 unfortunately. Sovol and Anycubic make printers among the cheapest that are more beginner friendly (I think) than Ender, for roughly the same price. I have a friend with a Creality and an Anycubic Vyper, and the Vyper seems to be more beginner-friendly. I have two Crealitys and I love them, but both required a ton of modifications to become reliable.

Can you check your area for a local maker space? My local library has 3D printers for anyone under 18. Universities typically have a few of different technologies (SLS, SLA, FDM)

If you have a filament runout sensor, the klipper default settings aren’t great. If the sensor activates, the printer shuts down after about an hour, losing your home position. With a part on the bed, you can’t re-home, so it’s a wasted print.

The mesh leveling isn’t automatic either. You might want to add either auto-load your default mesh leveling if you always use the same print surface, or put mesh leveling codes in the starting G-code section of your slicer.

I ran the pressure advance tuning and found that I needed a ton of pressure advance. My prints turned out much better.

I also got improvements by reducing the allowable deviation in the slicer (G-code files get much bigger, though), and I load files as STEP files directly in Prusaslicer. STL doesn’t have curves, it’s a series of planes. STEP files have geometric primitives and can have curves.

This looks like it would work with any E3D V6 heat break, right?

After CNC Kitchen’s review of the orbiter, I want to add one to my CR-10 V2. Its OEM heat break is an E3D V6 design.

In what way does dark matter interact with matter/light that people think it exists, is it gravitational?

3D Print General had one video where I recognized an AR-15 lower being printed in the background. The voice over was on the printer or filament (I forget).

Hoffman Tactical is still on YouTube. I was made aware of this channel when researching CF Nylon. HT has several promotional videos of his 80% printed AR rifle, and long discussions about which filament to use for which part of a rifle.

It’s very inconsistent.

The one thing I didn’t like about klipper firmware on my CR-10 was the default filament runout setup. One of my first big prints (with expensive ApolloX filament) ran out. The default klipper setup waits something like an hour, with the hot end still hot, then completely shuts down.

So my home position was lost, and with a partial part on the plate, there was no way of re-homing, so it was a wasted part.

Make sure your filament runout timeout is set to 24 hours (and I think I might have made the temp lower so it didn’t burn?)

I like klipper on mine, too. I do wish the default mesh would be loaded at startup, but it doesn’t load any mesh. Which doesn’t really matter, I guess. I have four build plates, three different styles, so I’m running bed levelling pretty much every print anyways.

Polymaker polylite PLA pro. The Polymax PLA is more expensive and less rigid. The PLA pro is only $2 more a kilo than regular polylite PLA and significantly stronger. Many colors are more matte than esun PLA + which is similar in cost and performance.

Almost a decade ago that was true. I use budget Android phones, and Brave was the only ad-blocking browser I could use. Firefox with ad-blocking plugins was slower than Chrome with ads. Brave was chromium based and was by far the most responsive way to browse the web.

Firefox got their act together and now the Android version is great. And the plugins work well. Brave began substituting some site ads for their own ads, if I remember correctly. You'd see fewer ads, but Brave was getting some money to let a few through.

Second this. If it’s PLA, improving layer cooling might help stiffen the last layer before the next is applied. If it’s not PLA, slowing the print down can reduce the horizontal forces for slower-cooling filaments like PETG/ABS. If there’s any warping or over extrusion leaving little blobs on the surface, your nozzle can bump into them, breaking cantilevered features like this one, or breaking the part off the build plate. Getting retraction to blob less or making sure no over-extrusion exists could help. If it’s PETG or Nylon, printing slightly wet (where the surface doesn’t look bad) can cause blobs on the top layer that the nozzle hits and causes those horizonal forces.

Drooping like this means something is too soft (speed up cooling on PLA, reduce print speed to give more cooling time and better layer adhesion for any material)

Prints like this aren’t impossible. I’ve printed a PETG storm drain that had vertical slots like this when I couldn’t buy one I needed. It turned out great but I had to print really slow.

My first PETG print was amazing. One of the best prints I ever did. Then I had 10 failures in a row. I went though 3 half rolls (kept changing them thinking it was cheap filament).

I had a CR-10v2 with the OEM bed springs. I stiffened them by adding a bunch of washers since it’s recommended to upgrade the OEM springs. Suddenly I had mostly good prints. I bought a filament dryer and started printing directly out of that. That solved most of the rest of my problems.

PETG is the “second easiest to print” because it can print below 250 and doesn’t need an enclosure, but that’s only part of the picture. It’s really picky with your first layer height, it doesn’t stick to itself very well with a layer fan on it, and it absorbs moisture (I live in a swamp, I have to print PETG out of a dryer).

I find ASA easier to print than PETG with most prints, with only a few warp-prone shapes where ASA is difficult. I try ASA first and keep more spools in hand than PETG.

I’ve got one now with a V6 knockoff hot end, steel PEI print bed, and running klipper firmware. It was backup printer, and now it’s the backup to the backup (purchased Comgrow $70 used Ender 3 pro).

I’d like to give this to a friend that’s interested in printing, but I’d have to flash back to stock firmware. The buttons and display don’t work with klipper, and I don’t have a spare raspberry pi.

It’s still relevant with the upgrades I made to it, except it’s still has really noisy steppers, and the build volume is so small it’s really limiting. I think the Prusa mini is still large enough to be practical. The monoprice is mostly relegated to toys.

I need some 18650 holders for a project which the mini can do great with, but I need a lot and printing them two or three at a time won’t cut it.

Even with moderate usage, no joke, I’d recommend getting a flammables cabinet to store IPA. At the end of every weekend, I drain our washing station back into two three liter jugs and put them in the flammables cabinet. I drain them while the washer is running to get the solid stuff out of the washer. They’re stored correctly, the cabinet prevents light from reaching the jugs, and the solids settle to the bottom of the jugs over the weekend. On Monday I carefully pour the top portion into the auto washer and top it off with new IPA. The settled layer gets poured into the waste container.

We have two printers at work, one wash station and one cure station. And we have 8x jugs of IPA in our flammables cabinet.

Before we started settling in the cabinet and decanting our wash solution, we went through an incredible amount of IPA that we had to deal with as waste. And this is from two SLA printers, which we use in addition to our Prusa MK3 and SLS nylon printers, so we don’t always use the resin printers.

I have about a 30% success rate bottling with flip tops. I normally keg but wanted the flexibility to bottle, but I had a lot of flat beer that I had to pour into a mini keg and force carbonate.

Because it’s the harder skill, IMO. People find out I can print and start asking for really custom stuff, like all I have to do is picture it in my head and it will print.

I can draw a little in CAD, because that’s part of my day job. But I don’t know how to make a model of Mario dabbing.

Happened before. I can’t find the story though. I think it was someone who showed up in Europe claiming to be a government official for a South American country. They commissioned printers to make a lot of currency notes. They vanished and it was discovered they weren’t part of this countries’ government.

Most US counterfeit US Bank Notes are printed in Colombia these days.

Thanks for the link.

It wasn’t an issue with my monoprice, so I might have skipped over some warnings. Then I didn’t read up on all of klipper documentation because I was familiar with it. Maybe I’m warning others about something that’s in the documentation anyways.

The stupid thing is that I’ve had this happen with my Ender 3 Pro when hooked up to pronterface. I had forgotten it had happened.

It has a small function. A random gamma ray decides to absorb into DNA? Well, 85% chance it won’t matter.

My understanding is that on average a human will make malignant cell about once a year, but the other anti-cancer systems of the body deal with it. People that develop cancer had one of those cells escape the system. Without introns this would be a much more frequent event.

Similar idea: at work we were sintering metal powders together in a vacuum chamber, but had oxygen diffuse into the metal about twice as much as our limit to keep it strong. So the lead researcher took titanium powder that weighed a little more than twice what our work part weighed and put it in the chamber, and the oxygen level dropped to about half in our parts. After that he started making three parts at a time to keep oxygen levels down.

It’s not a reason for developing this way, but introns are great for familial testing. They don’t need to be preserved so they’re changing all the time. If we didn’t have introns, familial testing would have to be done by looking at several DNA or protein types. Blood type, what D2 receptor phenotype. What MTHFR phenotype, etc.

Sorry for long post but I love this topic: in all primates non-coding DNA, there’s the gene that makes vitamin C. Most mammals make their own, except primates and Guinea pigs. In primates, the vitamin C gene is broken at the same location. So, the chances of multiple species of primates developing this mutation at the same place is very low. They’d all have to develop this mutation at the same place and thrive over the other members of the species, and become the dominant phenotype, and all offspring consume enough vitamin C in their diet to thrive also. Every single primate!

Instead, it’s much more plausible that one primate or primate ancestor develop this mutation in an area where the food sources had plenty of vitamin C, and a population reduction caused this ancestor primate to be the sole ancestor of the remaining primates, which then evolved to become monkeys, apes, and humans.

The Guinea pig vitamin C mutation that causes it to not work? It’s in a different location than the primate mutation.

Edit: apparently some primates can make vitamin C. But most can’t, and the ones the can’t, the gene is broken at the same place.

If an embryo decides to split in two, and then sends out the marker that “this is the right side” and it’s too close to the other embro, there will be a set of identical twins, but one will have the heart on the right side, appendix on the opposite side etc. This needs to be known if the “mirrored” person has a colonoscopy, since the colon is folded the opposite direction.