Word of warning, DO NOT use regular Nair down there unless you are fine with potential chemical burns on your nuts for a week. It’s not fun, really really not fun. I’m not even sure I would use sensitive area Nair anymore, it just doesn’t seem designed for coarse pubic hair. I use a Philips Oneblade now with the body groom attachment, I’ve caught the skin once or twice but I’ve found it’s way better than any other electric razor I’ve tried in the past and does a good job. The gap inbetween the blade and stationary bit of the razor is smaller and harder to pinch your skin in.

What you can’t see in this is the guy from the Men in Black with a leaf blower.

It says 5 moves, which could average 10 seconds or less per move if it’s speed chess sex, so a much more realistic standard.

Canadian here moving back into his parents house next week after being away for 9 years because he can no longer afford to rent a property of any kind in this city. Or rather I should say I can, but combined with student loans, utilities becoming insanely priced, and an only okay paying job (still nearly $10 over min wage), it means I have nothing left over at the end of the month. I haven’t had savings in over a year and just don’t really do anything aside from work since I straight up can’t afford to. On one hand I’m lucky I found a good job near to my parents that uses the skills I currently use at my job and it even pays a bit more, but it feels like I’ve failed at being an adult the same time. At least I’ll be able to save some money and maybe actually enjoy life for once in a while.

Tea solves all.

I’ve been watching Tom for years and now that this video is here it gives me a very bittersweet feeling, it’ll be odd not having a new video from him on Mondays. But good on Tom for realizing what’s important to him and putting it first, although I do hope that some day he is able to return to YouTube or media. And you never know, depending on how much time he takes off, maybe the next series will be “Tom Scott goes to space”!

So cute 🥺

Beep boop.

Makes me glad I still have access to my old university email and credentials.

We’re not unreasonable - I mean no one’s gonna eat your eyes.

Alberta within the last few months switched from a private company doing lab testing back to the old provincial run system, wait times for appointments went from over a month to a few days for me. And that celebrating was cut short by the fact they want to split up AHS now which is more likely going to screw up a bunch of our healthcare again.

I just went through this process when I got a Dreame D10 Plus which has an identical root process as the L10s a few weeks ago with the intent of putting Valetudo on it. I ended up trying but failing after one of the header pins I was trying to flash it with broke off in the machine. If you are brand new to this stuff, personally I wouldn’t recommend trying it. If you still want to try, do not update the robot once you get it and either buy one of the programming boards or at the very least have some 2mm pitch header pins around (standard in NA is 2.54mm). I really wanted to run mine locally as well (don’t like the idea of someone gaining access to a full lidar map and remote controlled camera in my house) and hope in the future an easier method is discovered. I don’t know about the base station for each floor thing, I do know that Valetudo only supports a single map. From what I understand that means you’ll have to re-map each floor before cleaning. If you only want Home Assistant intergration there is a HACS intergration for Dreame that allows for multiple maps. You used to have to jump thorough some hoops and use it with Xaomi cloud or something but the newest beta allows sign-in using the Dreame app credentials.

It sort of sounds like a resonance thing to me. If you try speeding up or slowing down the print and it stops making that noise, it’s most likely resonance. Are you able to get an idea of where the noise seems to be coming from? Like the gantry or base, etc. I also know people have been putting automotive sound deadener inside the enclosure on the bottom panel as it seems to make a lot of noise from resonance.

The tension adjustment on that extruder isn’t the greatest and the best fix in the long run would be upgrading it to a better design. But in the mean time, I find there’s sometimes a bit of slop in the extruder mounting to the stepper. If you loosen the screws that secure the extruder to the stepper you may be able to move the extruder assembly in a way that gives the filament more space between the gear mounted to the stepper shaft and the pinching gear on the extruder arm. Yymv, sometimes theres a bit of play and sometimes theres not but it could help.

Yeah, its a bit of a pain if thats what it requires. Luckily none of the ones I’ve worked on so far have been off by more than a millimeter across the bed and thats acceptable to me (at least for where these machines are going) for bed leveling to do the rest so I havent opened up the bottom on any yet. Solid machines printing wise though! Been incredibly impressed so far despite hit or miss reviews online, only failed prints I’ve had are from met arranging models poorly. And no worries, best of luck with the machine!

Ok, I can’t really confirm this for sure as these machines have to be delivered later today and I can’t go taking them apart, but I took a look at our K1’s and my guess is no. I think the grub screws you see in the case are for collars that keep the lead screws at the correct height, with no motor below there’s nothing else to stop them moving down. To adjust the bed level you’d have to loosen off the set screws that the sync T belt uses and thats only accessible from the base.

I have the CR Scan Lizard but have only used it for a few scanning jobs so far. Anything reflective causes a lot of issues with the scan but I was able to get some decent quality scans of my face, my hand, and a few other random objects I tested it on. Knowing how it performs now, I wouldn’t have paid full price. I feel the hardware is okay but the software is what holds it back, no alternative software that works with it either to my knowledge.

Yeah thats weird, I was thinking instead of recalling the mesh it was re-running it instead. It may still be from that but I figured the pre-sliced test files would work fine if that were the case. I’ve set up about 10 S1 Pro’s at this point and haven’t encountered that before. As someone else mentioned it may be worth looking into aftermarket 3rd party firmware options. If its not a gcode issue that leads me to think its something with the printer firmware. At work right now but let me know if you need any help and I’ll try to reply tonight.

This sounds like it could be a start gcode issue. What slicer are you using and did you use a preset profile or set it up yourself? Have you tried printing with the included test files that were on the SD card, and if so, did it start correctly?

I tried it once years ago and couldn’t get into it, found it kept guessing everything wrong or I was using it wrong, not sure. But just recently I got a smartwatch and heard many people recommending it and on such a small screen, it’s incredibly good at what it does. I may try it again on my phone soon as I’m starting to like it.